Collar and Collar Stand Tutorial: {Part 1–Making the Collar}

I mentioned here that I am taking a shirt-making class.  If you’ve followed this blog, you know that I’ve sewn a few shirts for my grandsons.  But they weren’t great, and I want to get great.  I have been puttering around with shirts for a bit. First I conquered adding a sleeve to the Sorbetto Top, and in the process, covered my less-than-perfect arms. Then I was on to t-shirts {which I feel I have conquered and won}. Now, I’m tackling collared shirts.  And, I’m feeling pretty good about it since I learned a technique that makes adding the collar and collar stand easy.

Sewing newbies, save this post ‘cuz you’re gonna want to remember this.



First, find a pattern with a collar and collar stand.  For this tutorial I’m using Kwik Sew K3146. I like Kwik Sew patterns because they use a 1/4” seam allowance, which is great for projects like a collar and collar stand.



Next, follow the pattern directions for Steps 1-6 (or whatever your pattern says) because they are usually clear and well written. Whatever pattern you use, you want to have the front plackets completed and the shirt attached at the shoulder seams.



It is only when you get to the collar-making part of a shirt pattern that things must change. This is what most patterns will tell you to do:



The step above is pretty straight forward, but below I break these steps down and show you how to get those nice, sharp collar points.

First, your collar should consist of two parts:  The Upper Collar and the Under Collar.  These really are different.  The Upper Collar is slightly longer (we’re talking 1-2 cm) because when it is turned right side out the seams will need to go to the under side ever-so-slightly and this gives you a smidge more fabric.

I suggest that you pre-interface the fabric before cutting out your collar or collar stand.  Once the fabric is pre-interfaced, lay out the Under Collar, pin, and cut.  This is what it will look like.  Pretty spiffy, huh!



Most patterns will instruct you to interface the Upper Collar.  I disagree and here’s my reason why:  If you are a lousy interfacer then your interfacing can bubble and pucker.  This will show on the Upper Collar but not on the Under Collar.  So, interface the Under Collar.  I use either either an iron-in woven interfacing or an iron-in stretch tricot.  Just be sure it is lightweight.



See how nice the interfacing is once you cut out the Under Collar.  Now, pin the Upper Collar and Under Collar right sides together {pictured below}.



Next, with a water soluble marker, make a 1/4” (or whatever your pattern requires) mark at the two pivot corners on your collar.
 

Then, place a piece of tear away stabilizer underneath each corner.  This gives you something to grab onto when turning the corner.  Otherwise, you are just grabbing air.



Stitch together according to pattern directions.  When you come to the pivot point at the collar points, slowly stitch up to the corner, drop your needle and pivot the collar using the tear away stabilizer.  Holding the stabilizer is the real key here.  If you’ve ever tried doing this without the stabilizer, you may recall that the fabric bunched up in the corner and made a big, knotted mess.

I’m using a 1/4” foot with a guide.  Many machines come with a 1/4” foot which will work quite well. Carefully, tear away the stabilizer and remove any marks.  Clip away corners – I do this by grading away from the corner.

 

Trim the Under Collar seam {with the interfacing}.  Trimming this will make your collar lie flatter when you turn it right side out.  I am using these fancy applique scissors, but good scissors will work, too – just go slowly.

Turn your collar right side out by taking something like a chop stick or knitting needle and hold it firmly into the corner of the interfaced side of your collar.

 
Hold it firmly while you pull the other side of the collar over the point.  Carefully push out your corner, but avoid pushing it too hard or you will poke through.
 


Once both points are turned, press your collar.  Try to press the Under Collar slightly to the underside.  In the picture below you can barely see how the seam is pressed just over the edge.


Edge stitch on the right side around the the three finished sides of the collar.  Many sewing machines have an edge stitch foot (like Bernina #10) which makes this step much easier.  Put stabilizer in the corners like you did before for easier pivoting.



Remove the stabilizer in the corners and press the collar to set the stitches.  Put your collar aside in order to work on the Collar Stand. 

I also want to mention two professional tools that can be used to improve your results.  One item is the Point Former and Tube Turner.  Put this into the collar corner and you will get a perfect point every time.  The other item is called a Point Presser and Clapper.  This tool allows you to press all of your collar seams.