Collar and Collar Stand Tutorial: {Part 2–Attaching the Collar and Collar Stand}

Now that you’ve completed your lovely collar with its perfectly pointy corners it is time to attach the collar stand and collar.

As I mentioned in the previous post about collar construction, your pattern’s directions make the next process really difficult.  I am here to remedy that.





Step 8 in the first picture is manageable (except for those curves on the collar stand; but when you attempt Step 9…well, let’s just say, some have lost their religion over this.


So, follow along closely, email me if necessary, and you will walk through the gates of collar/collar stand perfection!


For starters, I am assuming that you have already interfaced one side of the collar stand using the method from Part 1 of this series.


Fold the collar in half and find the middle. Mark with a pin. Do the same on the interfaced collar stand.



Take the interfaced collar stand and beginning in the middle where they meet, pin the collar to the collar stand, right sides together.  NOTE:  Be sure that the under collar is facing the right side of the interfaced collar stand.  Notice that the notches should match up when pinning. 



All you are going to do at this point is make some markings while the collar is pinned.  After that you will remove the pins and set the collar aside.


Since my pattern has a 1/4” seam allowance, all of my markings will be 1/4”.  If your pattern has a 5/8” seam allowance, mark accordingly.


At the 1/4” (or according to your pattern) seam line, make a mark on the outside AND inside of the collar stand where the collar stops.  Then, on both sides, mark your seam line.



Don’t unpin yet, because now you are going to take the other collar stand (the one not interfaced) and, matching collar stands right sides together, pin the other collar stand to these two pieces.  Mark the seam lines like above.




Now that you’ve pinned and marked the two collar stands, remove the pins and separate the three pieces.



Take the interfaced collar stand and pin it right sides together to the shirt at the collar.  Be sure that the two top edges of the right and left side of the shirt front line up with the 1/4” (or your pattern’s seam allowance) mark that you made in the previous step.



Before you stitch the interfaced collar stand to the shirt, you want to now pin the collar stand without interfacing to the shirt.  Be sure that the right side of the collar stand is facing the wrong side of the shirt.  That way, the two collar stands will be right sides together.



Beginning at the corner mark, stitch the two collar stands, which should be facing right sides together, to the shirt.  Do not stitch the curved seam allowance, yet.  I will show you how to attach the collar and finish the seams below.


Press the collar stands up.



Flatten out collar stands and roll back the Right Front and Left Front of the shirt until it is past the stitching mark. Pin to hold.



Where the stitching seam stops, begin pinning the Under Collar side of the collar to the Right side of the Collar Stand. 



You are going to have to now fiddle and finesse with this next step; but I promise, you will have a beautiful collar when you’re finished.


Take the pointy end of the collar and roll it back, then pin to secure.  Like you did with the shirt front above.



Fold the Collar Stands right sides together and stitch on previously drawn stitching line.  Go slowly because the shape of your Collar Stand depends on your accuracy.  Stop where the Collar Stand and Collar meet. 



Clip the corner very carefully, then trim around the curves.  HINT:  Pinking shears do a great job of this.  Turn this end of the collar and smooth out the curve with something like a knitting needle.  Repeat on opposite side.



Fold under the raw edge of collar stand 1/4” (or according to pattern directions).  Use one of these items:  Pins, fabric glue, or Wonder Tape to secure the open seam on the Collar Stand that is on the inside of your shirt.  Note:  If using fabric glue, allow it to dry at least an hour before top stitching.



On the right side of your collar stand, beginning somewhere in the middle, top stitch around entire collar stand.  I am using the Bernina Edge Stitch Foot #10; however, most manufacturers have some sort of edge stitching foot.  You can always use an all purpose foot.


That’s all there is to it!  See how nice the collar and collar stand look.  The pattern manufacturers method does work, but this method will give you a consistent look every time.  One caveat:  You may curse me the first time you try this, but by the third time, you will be a pro…I promise!



To finish the shirt, continue with your pattern’s directions for adding the sleeves (that post is for another day), side seams, buttonholes/buttons and a hem.

Be fearless and try making a shirt with a collar and collar stand.  You will be surprised at how simple it really is.