Friday, August 17, 2012

Absolute Beginner’s Wrap Skirt–Part III

When last we met, our skirt was looking like a skirt, sans waistband.  So, today I’m wrapping up the Wrap Skirt series.

To review:  Steps 1-3 are here and Steps 4-5 are here.

Step 6: Assembling the Waistband

Before starting, be sure to transfer the pull-through dot markings on the Front Waistband and Back Waistband.

NOTE: The finished skirt has a pull-through waistband. The pull-through dots will enable you to make an opening that the tie can go through, allowing you to tie the skirt.

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With right sides together, pin one of the Waistband Back pieces to Waistband Front matching the notches.

Make note of where the pull-through dots are on the Waistband Front and pin at the other end.

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Stitch together the right side of the waistband seam. Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and the end.

There is no need to finish the seam edges since the seams will be enclosed in the Waistband.

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With right sides together, pin the Front Waistband and Back Waistband at the end with the pull-through dots.

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The picture below will help you understand the instructions.

Starting at the top edge, stitch to Dot 1, then backstitch to reinforce {because these gaps are where your Waistband Ties will pull-through. Any seam weakness could cause it to tear}.

Skip the space between Dot 1 and Dot 2.

Stitch between Dot 2 and Dot 3, then backstitch to reinforce.

Skip the space between Dot 3 and Dot 4.

Stitch between Dot 4 and the bottom edge, then backstitch to reinforce.

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Press open seam.

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Fold the waistband at the fold line to make sure the opening lines up.

Adjust if your seams don’t line up.

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Step 7: Attaching the Waistband

With right sides together, pin the Waistband to the Skirt. Be sure to line up the seams and pin them first. Then, from the center, pin out in both directions. Be sure to pin the darts down in the correct direction.

Note: The Waistband is straight while the top edge of the skirt is curved. To compensate for this you may need to gently tug the fabric in order for it to line up.

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Stitch Waistband to Skirt. Be sure to backstitch at both ends. Remove pins as you sew and don’t forget to slightly tug as you sew, allowing the Waistband to fit the Skirt’s curve.

Press seam towards Waistband and away from Skirt. Press on both sides.

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The seam allowance can be a little bulky. One way to handle this is to trim away the bulk by grading the seam.

This is done by trimming the seam allowance at two different levels.

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Step 8: Finishing the Waistband

On the top and bottom edges of the Waistband, turn under a 5/8” hem and press.

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On the two ends of the Waistband, turn under a 5/8” hem and press.

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Cut out a notch over the pull-through opening, otherwise the seam allowance will cover it.

This will make it easier for the tie to slip through the opening.

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With WRONG SIDES together, fold the Waistband in half and press.

Where the Waistband meets the seam, the Waistband should barely cover the stitching. Pin to hold.

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Match up the edges of the Tie ends. Press and pin.

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Make sure the pull-through openings are lined up. Press and pin to hold.

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OPTIONAL STEP: Securing the Waistband Before Sewing 

There are a few products that I like to use that keep the Waistband from slipping when I topstitch.

One product is called Wash Away Wonder Tape which is available at places like Joann’s. The other is the Sewline Fabric Glue Pen which I found at a local quilt shop.

I am using the fabric glue pen to secure my Waistband before stitching. All I need to do is remove the pins and put down a little of the glue pen. Then re-pin before stitching.

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Topstitch as close as you can to the edges {also called Edge Stitching} of the Waistband and Ties. This will close off the Waistband and enclose the Waist Ties. 

HINT: Some sewing machines have an Edge Stitch Foot. This is the time to use it! No Edge Stitch Foot, your All Purpose Foot will work just fine.

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Step 9: Hemming the Skirt 

Sew a single 5mm gathering stitch 1/4” from the raw edge. Barely tug on the gathering stitch. Fold under 1/4” and press.

NOTE: The fold-under line with a slight gather will create ease and help the hem lay flatter along the hemline’s curved edge.

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Fold under again 1” and press.

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Stitch the hem close to the edge. Use an Edge Stitch Foot if you have one. Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and end.

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Press hem on both sides. And, you are done!

Now, put on your new skirt, grab a cup of coffee, and go fabric shopping.


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1 comment:

FlyAwayHome said...

Very cute.Love your fabric choice.

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