REVERSE APPLIQUE {on knits} TUTORIAL

One of my favorite applique techniques is reverse applique.  Even better – reverse applique on knits.  The reason, because knits don’t ravel.  Yea!

This is so easy, even your dog could do it – well maybe help you.
 
All you need is a t-shirt, and second piece of t-shirt fabric (possibly from an old t-shirt) and something you want to applique.

I’m using the number 5 in an athletic font.  It has been blown up to font size 350.  Any simple design will work.

Step 1:

Place the design onto your t-shirt and trace with a removable marker.  I’ve used a water soluble marking pencil.

Step 2:

Cut a piece of fabric to be placed on the inside of shirt a little larger than the design.



Step 3:

Pin under-fabric to the back of the design.




Step 4:

Straight stitch on top of the design outline.  Since this is knit, I am going to straight stitch using a ball point needle.  However, you can do a zigzag or other stitch if you prefer.



Step 5:

Trim away the excess fabric on the under side.  Be careful not to cut into the design.


Step 6:
Cut inside the stitching line and remove the fabric.  Go s-l-o-w-l-y when cutting.  It would be very easy to cut all the way through.  I am using some pointy scissors that curve up at the end. 

That’s all there is to it!  Once it is washed and dried, it will look even better.




Perfect for a little boy on his 5th birthday!

T-Shirt - Round 4

Anytime I make a garment for myself there are always lots of adjustments.  Probably true for most women.  We've got curves where we wants 'em and not where we wants 'em.  Even a t-shirt has its problems.  By T-shirt Round 3, I really have a pattern I love and will want to use to make t-shirts for the near term.  Since all of my changes were made to tissue paper, you can imaging the current condition of my pattern; basically, tape is holding it together.

Now that I've gotten my pattern the way I like it, I'm going to trace a new one.  I really like to use the woven material that is made for pattern making, but I was out (and it's pricey).  I then thought I'd use some sew-in interfacing because it works well and holds up nicely.  I usually try to buy large amounts when Joann's has 50% off sales.  Oops, out of that, too.  I did have some freezer paper, which works great because it can be pressed down and will cling to your fabric, but I wanted to save this for two upcoming applique classes I'm teaching. 

What I'm left with is a piece of pattern tracing paper my mom gave me.  It is still paper, but very sturdy.  Of course, you could use newspaper, butcher paper, or even more tissue paper.  What you really want to do is make a final pattern that will be sturdy enough for all of your future t-shirt making.

Next, I carefully traced around my pattern pieces, traced the pattern markings, and recorded the pattern number and size.  Since this is a M-L-XLG pattern, I'll just called it Large.

Now it is time to take my last piece of knit (and my favorite) for Round 4

Not much drama, here.  Just a t-shirt.  Which is what I was really angling for.  I love this fabric with its burnout texture.  It will look great with a light sweater of jacket.  Which is great because this week the temperature has varied from 34 degrees up to 78 degrees. 

A girl has to be prepared for anything.

T-shirt: Round Three

Well, I am definitely making t-shirt progress.  I absolutely love the Round Three t-shirt.  It fits well and it looks great.  

I've fixed the neckline problem by reducing the 1/2" neckline dart down to a 1/4" dart.  I didn't reduce the middle of the dart since I liked the way the Round Two t-shirt fit through the arms and bust.  It is more 1/2"-ish in the middle and then tapers down.  Since knit fabric is so forgiving, little changes like this don't really affect the overall look.  Not exactly couture-approved fitting methods, but just right for t-shirts.

Changing the neckline reduction dart down to 1/4" also eliminated any need for me to make sizing changes to the collar at neck.  Since I was using the same fabric and not ribbing it was easy-peasy!

On all three t-shirts I used my serger which gives me clean-finished edges and a cover stitch hem.  I want to stress that you do not need a fancy-shmancy serger to achieve this look.  Knits do not ravel so there is really no need to have finished seams.  The cover stitch hem can be achieved using a 4mm double needle for knits, which will work on just about any sewing machine.  You will want to use ball point sewing needles for your seams.   If your machine has a setting for sewing knits (and most do) then use that setting for all of your  seams, and your garment will hold together well.

Next, the Round Four t-shirt.

T-Shirts...Round Two

I am still making t-shirts.  This time, Round Two, I've gotten a better fit.  I am actually trying to replicate a t-shirt that I (gasp!) paid $50 for at Coldwater Creek.  When I bought the shirt I had some extra cash to spend so, I decided to splurge.  However, all good things must come to an end and my ability to spend $50 on a t-shirt has ground to a complete halt.

Round Two t-shirt is definitely more fitted through the bust and not too clingy around the hips.  Notice the neckline still needs a little work.  It has a little pull in it.  I forgot to adjust the sizing for the collar after I had adjusted the neckline. 

 The adjustments for Round Two t-shirt are simple.  All I did was fold out a 1/2" dart on the tissue pattern at the neckline and then taper it down.  Since it is cut on the fold that means I took out 2" overall on the neckline.  Yikes!  You can tell on this shirt that the neckline is a little small.  I don't hate it, but I think that it is too much.

 
On the next t-shirt I will fold out a 1/4" dart in the tissue.  This will remove only 1" from the entire neck opening.  I  shortened the sleeve by 2" so it doesn't hit me at the elbow.  I cut the pattern and then moved
it up 2".  You can see this in the picture below.  I love the sleeve length, now.

Getting there slowly, but surely.  Really, all I want are some reasonably priced t-shirts to wear with light jackets since there has been a real absence of Winter here in Central Texas. 

Making T-Shirts

Last week I spent some time talking about the lovely Sorbetto and ways to make a few changes, like adding sleeves.  This week I am continuing the theme of shirts only I want to focus on t-shirts.  Which are very simple.  But can sometimes make you crazy.

I decided to go with this pattern...Kwiksew 2900, but there are plenty of patterns in the sewing sea, including making one from your own by cutting up your favorite holey t-shirt.  One day, I'll do a tutorial on that, but not today.  Still, the big three pattern companies have t-shirt patterns which can be purchased on the cheap...

I chose this pattern for its simplicity and neckline choices.  I wanted something that I could use over and over again.  First of all, if you have never sewn with knits, know this:  not all knits are equal.  Just a warning.   For a t-shirt, you need a two-way stretch fabric...like your favorite t-shirt.  Try tugging across...you've got stretch.  Now, try tugging down...no stretch.  The same is true when looking at fabric.  If it stretches from selvage to selvage...that's two-way.  On the back of the pattern envelope is a stretch measure.  If 4" of fabric stretches to the "at least here" mark, then the fabric will work with your pattern.

 

Also, the pattern should be designed for sewing with knits.  This pattern is designed for either sewing or serging.  Since I serge and sew...perfect!  Next, determine your size by measuring your bust at the fullest part.  Why not the hip...we'll, I'll tell you.  If you determined your pattern size by your hip measurement and you are larger on the bottom than the top, then your top will be huge and falling off your shoulders.   Easier to add at the hips, which is what I did.  

Here's the skinny on my t-shirt...I chose the size M because it matched my bust size.  But I tapered tapered my pattern down to the XLG (oh, the shame!) at the hips, taking a nip in near the waist for a more fitted style.  Since this is knit, it's very forgiving...

I then made the same changes on the pattern back and then traced them onto some tissue paper because I will probably make this in a v-neck and later a turtleneck.  Since the pattern instructions are so straight forward, I just followed them with no other change necessary.

Here's the first one, made out of a jersey knit (which was a nightmare - don't do this).  It fits ok, but it is really too big in the arm and is pretty big in the neck area.  I will probably only wear this around the house.  The fabric was cheap and perfect for a trial run.  

Next, I'll show this same pattern after a few adjustments.

Sorbetto Sleeves

In my previous post I showed my version of the Sorbetto Tank Top from Colette Patterns.  Here are the instructions on how to make these alterations.  If you've never inserted a sleeve into a garment, I recommend doing this first before attempting these alterations.

Leslie's Sorbetto Alterations

 Download the Sorbetto pattern here 

and tape it together

AND

Download the sleeve pattern here

Make sure the Test Square is accurate.  Set sleeve aside.  Note:  The pattern sleeve will go onto the top without any gathers, but I have included directions below to make the sleeve have a slight gather.  Below are directions on how to change the style of this sleeve.

Follow the pattern directions for sizing the top to fit you.  The top was low cut on me,  so I built it up a bit and also added to the hips (boo!) and lengthened the hem about two inches.  I used a colored pencil to make my changes.  Then I traced over my measurements.  Next, I traced the pattern onto tissue paper and transferred the markings. 

Now, cut out the sleeve pattern.  Next, you are going to make 5 style lines.  Make your first line at the Center Shoulder mark and make this line stop 1" from bottom edge.  Next, make two style lines 1" to the left of Center Shoulder and 1" to the right of Center Shoulder.  Finally, make your last two style lines 2" left of Center Shoulder and 2" right of Center Shoulder.  All style lines stop 1" from the bottom edge.

Notice that these style lines are not the same as the grain line.  When laying out your pattern, be sure you use the grainline appropriately.

Slash your style lines from top to the stopping point 1" from bottom edge.  Place a piece of tissue paper (or construction paper) underneath.  Spread each style line apart 3/8" and tape to tissue paper (or construction paper).  Notice that the bottom edge will need to be smoothed out a bit...not exactly a couture-approved method...but will work fine for this.

Your alterations now have caused your sleeve head to be a bit wonky across the top, so you will need to redraw this line and smooth it out.  I used a sleeve curve, but a dinner plate will work fine.  You just want it to be smooth and clean.  Again, not couture-approved....

Trim your pattern...

...and cut it out according to the pattern directions.  Be sure to follow the actual grainline when laying out your sleeve.  I HIGHLY RECOMMEND MAKING A MUSLIN SINCE THE PATTERN IS ALTERED.  
For the rest of the pattern follow the Sorbetto pattern instructions and...

 Staystitch - Step 1
Stitch Darts - Steps 1-3
Stitch Center Pleat - Steps 1-6
Stitch Front to Back - -Steps 1-4

STOP....

It's time to work on the new and improved Sleeve...

Prepare your Sleeve by stitching two gathering seams across sleeve head.  Be sure to mark front and back of Sleeve.

Stitch Sleeve side seams and press open.
 Pull up gathers and adjust.  

Turn under the sleeve hem twice and top stitch.  Pin Sleeve to top...Sleeve front to top front, etc.
Stitch sleeve to top according to standard practices using a 5/8" seam.  


Finish your Sorbetto Top according to the pattern directions with one exception...you do not need to finish the sleeve openings with bias tape since you've inserted this adorable gathered sleeve....

That's all there is to it!